In the world of timekeeping, automatic watches hold a special place. Combining intricate craftsmanship with timeless style, these watches are more than just time-telling devices; they are pieces of art. But what exactly makes a good automatic watch? Let’s dive into the details that distinguish the exceptional from the ordinary in the realm of automatic timepieces.

Read more about the history of watches Ties, Watches, Pocket Squares, and Cufflinks: An Amazing History of the 4 Main Accessories of Menswear.

The Movement: Heart of the Watch

The movement, also known as the calibre, is the heart of any automatic watch. It’s the internal mechanism that powers the watch and keeps time. A good automatic watch features a precise and reliable movement. Swiss and Japanese movements, like those from ETA, Sellita, or Seiko, are highly regarded for their accuracy and durability. The craftsmanship of the movement, visible through a transparent case back in some models, is often an artwork in itself.

Build Quality and Materials

The materials used in constructing a watch significantly impact its quality. Stainless steel is a popular choice for its durability and resistance to corrosion. Higher-end watches may feature titanium or ceramic, known for being lightweight and scratch-resistant. The watch crystal, which protects the dial, is another crucial component. Sapphire crystal is preferred for its clarity and scratch resistance, far superior to mineral glass or acrylic.

Design and Aesthetics

While functionality is key, the design and aesthetics are what initially draw attention to a watch. A good automatic watch boasts a timeless design, offering a balance between elegance and functionality. Whether it’s a minimalistic look or a more complex dial with chronograph features, the design should be coherent and well-executed. Attention to detail, such as the finishing of the case, the quality of the dial, and the style of the hands and indices, all contribute to the overall appeal of the watch.

Water Resistance

Water resistance is an important feature, especially for those who lead an active lifestyle. A good automatic watch should have a minimum water resistance of 30 meters, which is sufficient for everyday use. However, for diving or water sports, look for watches with higher water resistance ratings, typically 100 meters or more.

Brand Heritage and Horological Significance

While not a direct indicator of quality, the brand’s heritage and its place in horology can add to a watch’s appeal. Brands with a long history in watchmaking often have a track record of quality and innovation. A watch from a brand with a storied past can be a conversation piece and a testament to horological history.

Comfort and Wearability

A good watch should not only look great but also feel comfortable on the wrist. The design of the case, the weight of the watch, and the type of strap or bracelet all contribute to its wearability. A well-designed watch should feel balanced and comfortable, suitable for daily wear.

A good automatic watch is a blend of precision engineering, quality materials, functional design, and aesthetic appeal. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, understanding these key aspects can help you choose a timepiece that you’ll cherish for years. Remember, a fine automatic watch is more than just a timekeeper; it’s a piece of craftsmanship that tells a story on your wrist.

Ready to dive in? Here is a list to get you started


Top 5 Automatic Watches Under $500: Exceptional Timepieces on a Budget

Introduction: Following our exploration of what makes a good automatic watch, let’s delve into some exemplary timepieces that don’t break the bank. For watch enthusiasts on a budget, finding a quality automatic watch under $500 can be a challenging task. However, it’s not impossible. Here are five recommended automatic watches that offer exceptional value, quality, and style, all under $500.

1. Seiko Presage
  • Price: Around $500
  • Features: Known for its stunning sunburst dial and classic design, the Seiko Presage offers the perfect blend of elegance and precision. It features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, a Seiko in-house automatic movement, and a date function. The watch is water-resistant and comes with a hardlex crystal.

Seiko Pressage Automatic Blue Dial  

  • Seiko 23 Jewels Self-Winding Automatic Movement with Hackable Second Hand (Calibre 4R35B)
  • Stainless Steel Case and Band
  • Push Button Deployment Clasp
  • Hardlex Mineral Crystal, Date Display
  • Silver Tone Hands and Markers, Hand Winding Capability
  • Case Size: 40.5 mm Diameter, 12 mm Thickness
  • Water Resistant – 5 ATM
  • Transparent Screw Down Case Back
2. Orient Kamasu
  • Price: Approximately $300
  • Features: The Orient Kamasu is a dive watch that boasts both reliability and a stylish design. With a 41.8mm case, sapphire crystal, and 200 meters of water resistance, it’s an excellent choice for water activities. It features Orient’s own automatic movement and has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

Orient Kamasu

  • Orient F6922 Automatic, Hand-Winding, Hacking Movement
  • 41. 8 mm Case Diameter
  • 22 mm Lug Width
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Water resistant 200m (660ft)  in general, suitable for professional marine activity and serious surface water sports, but not diving
3. Orient Bambino
  • Price: Around $130 – $300 (depending on the version)
  • Features: The Orient Bambino is a classic dress watch known for its timeless design and affordability. Available in various versions, each with a distinct style, the Bambino features a 40.5mm case, a domed mineral crystal, and an automatic in-house movement. It’s a perfect entry-level watch for those seeking elegance and mechanical precision.

Orient ‘Bambino Version 2’

  • Orient F6724 Automatic, Hand-Winding, Hacking Movement
  • 40. 5 mm Case Diameter
  • 21 mm Lug Width
  • Domed mineral Crystal
  • 30 Meter Water Resistance
4. Seiko 5
  • Price: About 250
  • Features: The Seiko 5 SNXS73K is part of the renowned Seiko 5 series, known for its reliability and value. This model features a classic and versatile design with a 37mm stainless steel case, making it suitable for both casual and formal wear. The watch showcases a day-date display at the 3 o’clock position, a hallmark of the Seiko 5 series. The SNXS73K is powered by Seiko’s automatic movement, renowned for its accuracy and durability. It has a hardlex crystal for scratch resistance and is water-resistant, though not suitable for diving. The sleek silver dial, combined with the stainless steel bracelet, gives the watch a timeless look.

Seiko 5 SNXS73K

  • Stainless steel case and bracelet
  • Silver dial; Luminescent hands
  • Automatic movement
  • Scratch-resistant hardlex crystal
  • Water resistant
5. Citizen Promaster Diver
  • Price: Approximately $220
  • Features: A robust and functional dive watch, the Citizen Promaster Diver is an excellent choice for those seeking an adventure-ready timepiece. It features a 44mm stainless steel case, an eco-drive movement that is powered by light, and is water-resistant up to 200 meters. The watch also has a unidirectional bezel and a date function.

Citizen Promaster Dive Eco-Drive

  • LIGHT-POWERED ECO-DRIVE: Converts any light, whether natural or artificial, into energy. Energy is stored in a permanently rechargeable power cell. The watch recharges continuously in any light to run forever, with no battery changes required, ever.
  • 3-Hand, Date
  • Water Resistant to 200m
  • Silver-Tone Stainless Steel Case
  • Mineral Crystal

These five watches represent some of the best options available for under $500, each offering a unique combination of style, functionality, and value. Whether you’re looking for a sophisticated dress watch, a rugged field watch, or a dependable diver, these timepieces prove that quality and affordability can go hand in hand in the world of automatic watches.


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